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Close view of blue and white patterned Portuguese azulejo tiles on a Lisbon wall

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Field Notes

The Lisbon Journal

Longer reads assembled on the same research trips as our hotel profiles — tiles, neighbourhoods, and the kitchens worth planning an evening around.

Three features

Read before you pack

Each feature is a full-length article with practical detail, specific addresses and links out to museums, producers and institutions worth your time.


Blue and white azulejo tile panel with geometric repeating pattern on a Lisbon façade A1

Design · 8 min read

How to read an azulejo panel

Five centuries of Portuguese tile, decoded: Hispano-Moresque origins, the blue-and-white revolution, pombaline production, Art Nouveau façades, and where to see the best examples in the city.

  • Azulejo
  • Museums
  • Walking route
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Lisbon hillside neighbourhood of pastel houses and terracotta roofs above the river A2

Orientation · 10 min read

Choosing a Lisbon neighbourhood

Chiado, Bairro Alto, Príncipe Real, Alfama, Avenida, Belém and Sete Rios — what each district is actually like at 8am, 2pm and midnight, and which of our five hotels sits where.

  • Districts
  • Transport
  • Noise levels
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Elegant restaurant dining room at night with set tables, candles and soft golden lighting A3

Dining · 9 min read

Where Lisbon's hotel kitchens are cooking

From a Michelin-starred tasting menu beside Eduardo VII Park to rooftop plates above the Tagus and cellar dinners in Bairro Alto — plus how to book the tables that matter.

  • Michelin
  • Rooftops
  • Wine pairing
Read the feature